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The indigenous Boruca (Brunka) people of Costa Rica, their famous hand-carved masks and the annual Festival de los Diablos.

1/20/2017

18 Comments

 
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Winding through the Talamanca mountains the sky is gleaming blue,  wispy clouds float and swirl across the valley as our car climbs the steep ridge. Following the dusty road, with our family who was visiting for Christmas, we continue to climb and admire the beauty of the nature that surrounds us, as we head toward Boruca. The landscape looks like a painting. 

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The Boruca (or Brunka) are a tribe of indigenous people living in the Southern Pacific section of Costa Rica, in the Talamanca mountains, near the Panama border. The population of the tribe is over 2,000, mostly residing in the Reserva Boruca. The Reserva Boruca-Terraba was among the first indigenous reserves established in Costa Rica and has a colorful history.


Most indigenous tribes in Costa Rica were defeated by the Spanish conquistadors in the 1500's, but the Boruca were one of the few native tribes to survive the conflict with their community, village and tribe identity still in place. As soon as you enter the charming Borucan territory you can feel the pride they hold and share for their sense of culture, artistry and community.

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The Borucan population's main source of income is from the sale of indigenous arts and crafts. The Brunka's handcrafts are a huge part of the community, holding both cultural and economic value. Nearly 80% of the population participates in the indigenous arts, selling their unique and colorful handmade creations to tourists and visitors.

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The most well-known indigenous art in Boruca are the famous hand-painted masks, made for the annual Festival de los Diablitos, which are sold all over Costa Rica. The masks are made of balsa wood, or cedar, and are hand-painted using natural dyes. Most have the face of a devil and are worn by the Borucan men during the Juego de los Diablitos (The Dance of the Little Devils), their traditional New Years celebration.

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After arriving in Boruca we head into the museum to admire the vibrant collection of masks hanging on display, and we learn about the background of the Brunka people and the tradition of their annual Festival de los Diablos.

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A festival of many names, the annual Danza de los Diablitos is a three-day New Years fiesta, which typically takes place between Dec 31 - Jan 2, and has been celebrated every winter since early colonial times. The Danza ceremony is a reenactment  of the resistance of the "Diablo", which symbolizes the victory of the Boruca people against the Spanish conquistadors.


Upon arrival to the area the Spanish people called the Brunka people devils because they were not baptized, and it was instead assumed they worshipped the devil. This is why the main characters in the annual festival are the devils, or "diablos", or little devils, "diablitos".


​The devils dress up in these intricate hand-carved masks, as the masks represent the indigenous defeating the Spanish. The indigenous tribes only had natural weapons, facing the advanced weaponry of the Spanish, and believed in the power of animals for protection, like the jaguar.

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Wandering the peaceful village, we make a few stops to chat with some local artists. Some are outside their homes, under shade, carving. Some are inside, putting the finishing touches on their masterpieces. Many artists sell from their living rooms and you may be invited inside to admire their collection.


After touring the village, we decide on our purchases. With so many intricate, detailed, colorful masks to choose from the decision is not an easy one. But we are happy with our choices and stop at a scenic view point on our way out to snap some photos and make some lasting Borucan memories.

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I will be proud to hang our vibrant and unique Borucan mask on our wall, to forever watch over us and always remind us to stand up for what we believe in and to fight for what we stand for.

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The Boruca people remind us that a community cannot be defeated if in fact their culture still remains alive today.


“We continue. We continue fighting because there are many things that strike us, that hit us and try to destroy us, but we continue to fight despite it all. We fight to maintain — to maintain our culture, to be united for the well-being of our culture.” – Damaris Morales, school teacher in Boruca
 
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18 Comments
La Vida Viva Travel link
1/20/2017 05:31:54 pm

This is so awesome and what an incredible fighting spirit to keep their culture alive!! I only spent 24 hours in Acosta Rica getting from Panama to Nicaragua but would love to return one day and this was a good reminder of why I need to go!

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Kari
1/20/2017 05:35:23 pm

You should although I do love both Nicaragua and Panama, Costa Rica is worth a longer visit for sure, thanks for reading!

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Claire link
1/20/2017 06:29:44 pm

Wow those masks are awesome! I'm heading to Costa Rica later this year so will track these down! Hope i can fit it in my rucksack; )

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Kari
1/20/2017 07:49:13 pm

Awesome, have a great trip! The masks are surprisingly lightweight, so just wrap them in clothing in your bad and you are good to go :)

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Andrew
1/20/2017 06:48:48 pm

Not something many people have ever done. Even the ones that live near. Magical and majestic mountain full of mystery and myths. Don't leave southern Costa Rica without witnessing this experience. You will be glad you did.

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Kari
1/20/2017 07:49:40 pm

Very well said :)

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Desiree link
1/20/2017 07:21:40 pm

Love the vibrant photography and colorful culture you captured! I've been to Costa Rica a couple times now and it seems like there's always something new and interesting to discover.

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Kari
1/20/2017 07:49:58 pm

That is so true!

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Laryssa Gobets link
1/21/2017 05:08:38 am

Amazing masks and interesting history on the. I will have to add it to my list so we can get one of these masks to put on the wall. How much do they usually cost. Are they expensive

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Kari
1/21/2017 06:39:42 am

They are all hand-carved and hand-painted so they do take many hours to complete. You can usually find a small one between $50-$60.Our larger one was $100 but we negotiated it to $80. The extra large ones are $140+.

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Aunt Mary
1/21/2017 06:34:00 am

Oh my! I am going to hate to see your Costa Rican travels come to an end. But your amazing writing can continue! Lots to see and write about at home, too ;)

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Kari
1/21/2017 06:45:47 am

Exactly, I plan to still post Costa Rica blogs and also all the fun travels around Oregon :)

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Mom
1/21/2017 04:37:45 pm

Wish I could have been there to visit with the artists and see all the beautiful masks. Reminds me of the pottery visit on my birthday last year! Such a rich and beautiful culture!

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Kari
1/21/2017 05:30:44 pm

It was so cool mom, you would have loved the masks! It did remind me of our pottery day too, miss you!

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Danni Mares link
1/23/2017 09:27:48 am

Thank you Kari! I am so blessed to have met you and Andy and to be given more information in regards to this amazing country. This is on my list to go to when I travel south in April. <3

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Kari
1/23/2017 10:24:54 am

Thanks for your kind words Danni, we look forward to seeing you again soon! You should definitely visit Boruca and buy yourself a lovely Boruca mask to look over you :) Pura Vida!!

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tham taner link
9/21/2017 04:41:55 pm

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10/25/2017 06:37:01 am

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    Kari Pinkerton Silcox

    It would be a tragedy to die, having never really lived. Which is why my husband Andy and I quit our jobs, sold our house and decided to chase our dreams. We moved to Costa Rica without a plan, and this is the story of our adventure.
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